This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on January 30, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
Many wine lovers are aware of the triumvirate of Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino wine regions, but most are only aware of the wines of Anderson Valley. However there are many other parts of the county that merit attention, so a brief overview precedes a discussion of Mendocino Pinot Noir. This will be the first detailed tour of Mendocino on our radio show.
Mendocino AVAs and subregions
There are fewer than 100 wineries with over 15,000 acres under vine. Due to its remoteness many Mendocino wines are drunk locally and half of the grapes our shipped to other counties. There are 11 AVAs in Mendocino with Anderson Valley and Yorkville Highlands the most significant AVAs west of the Mendocino Ridge which divides the state into two different agricultural zones.
To the east with less influence from the Pacific are Redwood Valley, Eagle Peak and Potter Valley above Ukiah. The Russian River flows through the Ukiah Valley and is one of this region’s influences as it is in Sonoma.
A great resource for learning more about this wine region is Mendowine.com maintained by the Mendocino Winegrowers. The map below is from their website, which also includes interactive elements.
Map courtesy of Mendowine.com
- The Yorkville Highlands are below Anderson Valley but contain rocky soils, with high-gravel content that provide good drainage for low-yield vines of Sauvignon Blanc and Bordeaux blends.
- Potter Valley AVA sits more than 200 feet higher than its surrounding areas with wide diurnal shifts that permit slower ripening of the grapes. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Pinot Noir develop strong but refined character.
- Eagle Peak has 120 acres divided among five producers with Masút being the lone winery. The focus is Pinot Noir done in a balanced, lush style unique from further south.
Below Anderson Valley the Mendocino Ridge is the only non-contiguous AVA in America with only peaks above 1200 feet included. The vineyards appear like a series of islands above the fog bank deriving more sunny hours than below in the valleys. This region is known for exceptional Zinfandel that has been planted since the 1850s when the grape first arrived in California. The region covers more than a quarter-million acres of mountainous land, but just 75 acres of the entire viticultural area are planted on these ridge-top vineyards.
Anderson Valley AVA, Mendocino, founded in 1983
There are many wineries in Anderson Valley I have toured in the past. The pace is less hurried, as it should be when wine tasting and the chance to talk to the winemaker are also very high. This region has the highest concentration of wineries in Mendocino. Big River (yes, that’s what it’s called) begins in the coastal range and flows over 40 miles to its mouth at the seaside village of Mendocino, a not-to-be-missed charming town of shops, restaurants and quaint lodging. We stayed at the Hill House Inn a Victorian Inn with a commanding view of the Pacific that set the tone for our visit.
Anderson Valley is considered one of the prime Pinot Noir regions in California, as well as Chardonnay. Top quality sparkling wines are here as well as one would expect since these are its principal grapes. There is also quality Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, which are all Alsace, France varietals coupled with an Alsace Wine Festival. Some of the top wineries are listed below.
Brutocao Cellars Cakebread Cellars Goldeneye Winery Handley Cellars
Husch Vineyards Navarro Vineyards Roederer Estate Scharffenberger
History of Pinot Noir
The most likely origin of this classic grape is Burgundy. Many clones of Burgundian cuttings have been imported around the world. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc all possess the same DNA and are mutations of each other. France has the largest vineyard acreage devoted to Pinot Noir, followed by the US and Germany.
- Moldova between Ukraine and Romania close to the Black Sea, Italy, New Zealand, Australia, Switzerland and Chile round out the major growers
- Burgundy style is lower in alcohol 13.5% on average with less extraction, medium weight, less tannin and judicious use of French/European oak.
- California style is usually over 14% to 14.5%, more extraction, heavier body, more tannin, deeper color and various oaks including American oak.
Single vineyard or subregion versus multi-source
Many Pinot Noir producers market a wine from a single vineyard, but may create a number of different single-vineyard wines. They also often blend one or more Pinots from multiple sources and might have a flagship wine that has the best grapes of multiple lots. Those with a passion for this grape love to try different clones in a vineyard or across several vineyards. Those vineyards might be in one subregion, but could traverse more than one.
Every winemaker that respects terroir in the crafting of their wines understands this. They know that wines true to their terroir, that are not manipulated to please general taste preferences, that allow the wine to assert itself with minimum interference, realize they are placing us in their vineyards, their part of the world to experience that which is unique and evocative in their wine.
Both wines we are sampling here are county-wide wines that come from different vineyards across Mendocino. Since the highest yield of Pinot Noir is Anderson Valley fruit one can guess it also represents a high proportion of their blends. Mendocino coast, Potter Valley and Eagle Peak are also possible sources.
However since neither producer has provided a detailed tech sheet on these wines we can only speculate. Both have garnered good scores for their wine so wherever the grapes came in Mendocino they chose wisely.
What we are tasting: Sketchbook Pinot Noir 2018, 14.5% ABV, $20
Wine notes: At the cool northern extreme of California’s coastal wine region, Mendocino County is known for its elegantly balanced Pinot Noir grapes. To preserve the delicate characteristics of true Pinot Noir, the grapes were cold-soaked for 36 hours before fermentation and possess enhanced aromatics and structural complexity.
This wine comes from the Mendocino Wine Company, which supports sustainable and organic wineries. The origin winery is Parducci, the oldest winery in Mendocino in the modern era; established in 1932.
What we are tasting: Castle Rock 2019 Pinot Noir, ABV 14.5 %, $12
Since its inception in 1994, Castle Rock Winery has built a reputation for producing high quality wines at affordable prices. Castle Rock buys grapes from approximately 40 grape growers, all renowned for their expertise and consistency. They offer 10 Pinot Noir, 3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 3 Chardonnay wines from various sources. Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Petite Syrah based wines round out their list.
Grapes are sourced from several west coast regions. Pinot Noir wines include Monterey County, Mendocino County, Central Coast, Paso Robles, Los Carneros, and Russian River Valley in California. They also source grapes from Willamette Valley, Oregon and Columbia Valley in Washington. Their California Cuvee Pinot Noir scored 94 points and double-gold so they know how to do Pinot Noir.
Analysis
Both wines are well made and balanced with crisp acidity, red fruit and firm tannin. Both are done in a California style with a bit more alcohol than I prefer in a Pinot, but still offering food-friendly characteristics that will pair with lamb, beef and even rich salmon dishes. All three of us preferred the Sketchbook, but both offer similar QPR (quality price ratio) ratings, which is one of the key factors we use to judge a wine.
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