This blog came from a radio script that aired February 2, 2019 on The Spirits of New Mexico. The revamped show now includes an on-air tasting of a wine in the $20-$40 range and a detailed background of the wine region and subregion from which the sampled wine originated.
In a comparatively short period of time (1966) Oregon has been identified as the go-to place for Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and the Willamette Valley as the heartland of these grapes. However, any terroir that can grow great grapes for these two should do well with other varieties. While Willamette is the most important wine-producing region it is not the only one and its many wine regions also offer a variety of grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and even Tempranillo in Southern Oregon with climate similar to Alto, Rioja Spain.
Willamette Valley (Est. 1983)
The valley extends from the center of the state’s west coastal region in Eugene to Portland in the north and the border with Washington State. The valley is bracketed by the Cascade Mountains to the east and the Coastal Range to the west, which protects the valley from the coolest marine influences. There are eight AVA subregions, many around the city of Dundee including Dundee Hills that were established in 2005-2006. The Van Duzer Corridor is set to be established this year.
The AVA is 3,438,000 acres of which over 10,000 are devoted to vineyards. The rich alluvial soils of the valley are not suitable for quality grapes so the lower hillsides are planted, avoiding the unsheltered hilltops and colder climate.
Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling are the principal grapes grown in the valley.
- Pinot Noir: Lighter-bodied, possessing tart red fruit flavors, allspice and earthy notes similar to Burgundian wines.
- Pinot Gris: Some of the best domestic Pinot Gris comes from here. White peach, Meyer lemon and flowery notes. Same grape as Pinot Grigio, but done in a French style.
- Chardonnay: Again evoking white Burgundian notes with lighter body, leaner fruit with good acidity and minerality. Think Chablis, but bigger.
- Riesling: Another classic cool-climate grape that is beginning to get notice. Wine Folly likens the style to Pfalz, Germany. That makes sense since Pfalz is warmer than other parts of Germany and mountainous rather than river valley and they also favor drier styles.
Chehalem Mountains (Est. 2006)
This AVA is a single uplifted land mass southwest of Portland that extends 20 miles in length and 5 miles in breadth. The highest point in Chehalem Mountains is Bald Peak at 1633 feet. All three important soil types are represented here; basaltic, ocean sedimentary and loess (blown lakebed sediment), the predominant soil of the northern slopes. 1600 acres of grapes are planted in this 70,000 acre AVA, consisting of 100 vineyards and 31 wineries.
What we are tasting: Anam Cara Cellars 2014 Dry Riesling Nicholas Estate Chehalem Mountains 14.4% ABV
This is about the highest alcohol level I’ve ever seen in Riesling. I’m sure that is way beyond what a German Riesling could achieve. The Nicholas family began plantings in 2001. They produce several Pinot Noir wines, Chardonnay, a dry Gewürztraminer and a dessert version and a Rose of Pinot Noir as well as this Riesling. Anam Cara is Celtic for friend of my soul. They use biodynamic techniques which includes their two dogs Buck and Missy keeping the vineyard gopher-free. And without dropped dynamite down gopher holes I might add.
Vineyard and terroir:
The vineyard is located on a southeast-facing slope of the Willamette Valley’s Chehalem Mountains AVA in the hills above Newberg, Oregon. The vineyard was first planted by Nick and Sheila Nicholas in 2001. The elevation varies from 350ft-650ft and the vineyard rows are planted in a north-south direction, benefiting from cool, drying winds through the highway 99W corridor which keep mildew and frost pressure at bay.
The soils are primarily Loess (wind-blown ice age sediment) with bedrock and outcrops of volcanic Jory soils and deposits from the Missoula floods.
Missoula floods:
The Missoula Floods refer to the cataclysmic floods that swept periodically across eastern Washington and down the Columbia River Gorge at the end of the last ice age. The glacial flood events have been researched since the 1920s. These glacial lake outburst floods were the result of periodic sudden ruptures of the ice dam on the Clark Fork River that created Glacial Lake Missoula. After each ice dam rupture, the waters of the lake would rush down the Clark Fork and the Columbia River, flooding much of eastern Washington and the Willamette Valley in western Oregon. After the rupture, the ice would reform, creating Glacial Lake Missoula again.
It was estimated that the flooding was 13 times greater than the flows from the Amazon River and the torrent of water reached speeds of 80 mph. Talk about flash floods, whoa! The deposit of alluvial soils benefits farming in the valley, while the loess is more beneficial for quality grape growing.
Wine and food pairing:
Riesling wines are great food-pairing wines as well and go very well with Asian cuisine including Thai and sushi. The delicate flavors of raw fish need dry wines with good acidity. The spicy flavors of Thai cuisine also work well with this grape. My two choices at a Thai or Japanese restaurant are always premium sake or a good Riesling such as Washington and now Oregon provide.
The Spirits of New Mexico airs every Saturday afternoon on KIVA from 4pm to 5pm. Tune in at 1600 AM and 93.7 FM. Alternately from your browser enter ABQ.FM and an app will come up with an image of a Macintosh receiver. To the right is a dial to select our shows or for music. Select Spirits of NM to hear my current continuously looped program. And do please leave comments or questions I can use in a follow-up show.
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