The radio show aired on January 23, 2021. We do on-air tasting of wines, As my co-host was out on business this week we only sampled one wine. All our red wines receive a double-decant to insure it has opened up sufficiently so it might receive a proper judging.
This week’s show we are focusing on our local wineries and showing our support for our hard-pressed winemakers as they work to stay operational with wine pickup strategies. We’ll also provide an overview of New Mexico wine country and where you can pick up good local wines. So this virtual trip should cover cities and landmarks with which you already are familiar.
New Mexico Wine Regions
There are three defined American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) in NM and two recognized unique regions that currently are not so defined. The NM Wine Growers Association (NMWGA) divides the state into four geographic regions so we’ll begin there.
- Northern region includes Santa Fe, Farmington, and Taos. Most wineries are located in or near one of these cities. The Embudo Valley is pending approval of AVA status
- Central region includes Albuquerque, Bernalillo, Los Lunas and Belen. Many wineries were influenced by the Rio Grande, using its waters. This region contains the Middle Rio Grande viticultural area or MRG AVA, established in 1988.
- Southern region includes Las Cruces, Deming and Lordsburg. The Mimbres Valley AVA includes Deming and Silver City and out to Lordsburg, established in 1985. The Mesilla Valley includes Las Cruces-Mesilla down to El Paso, established in 1985.
- Southeastern region includes Tularosa, Alamogordo and Ruidoso. The Tularosa Basin is a recognized wine growing region that also has challenging weather.
New Mexico Wine History
The area around Socorro was the first area in the US where wine using Vitis Vinifera grapes was successfully grown. The generally agreed date is 1629. The Mission grape or Listan Prieto is still grown in New Mexico. It is related to the Palomino grape, a principal grape in making Sherry.
- 1800: Vineyards planted from Bernalillo to Socorro and Las Cruces to El Paso
- 1868: Jesuit priests brought Italian winemaking skills and founded a winery in 1872
- Between 1870 and 1880 wine production soared from 16,000 to 908,000 gallons
- 1880: Twice vineyard acreage of New York State. NY state is now third largest after California & Washington
- New Mexico was the 5th largest wine producer in 19th century
- 1919: Giorgio Rinaldi winemaker for Christian Bros worked with NMSU to improve grape types
- Louis Gros winemaker for Christian Brothers vineyards in Bernalillo until sold in 1948
- In Corrales the Alary, Targetta, Salce and Le Plat families made wine, even through prohibition
In the mid-19th century the vines were head-pruned (head-trained) and buried in winter. However the soils became heavily alkaline turning the ground almost white. That and constant Rio Grande flooding prevented protecting vines in winter. Prohibition was the coup de grace with recovery only beginning in the 1970s.
The Alary Wine Pool
During prohibition many families including the Alarys made wine and distilled spirits. They all still needed to make a living after all. The wine barrels were hidden in haystacks. Alas, that was not nearly as difficult as finding a needle. The revenuers discovered several wine barrels and broke then open with axes. The distraught neighbors seeing the growing pool of wine ran over and began enthusiastically lapping up the nectar. They became so intoxicated the young Alary with his father and uncle had to drag them out by their feet to keep them from drowning in the stuff!
Oh where was a camera when you really needed one.
Modern Wine History
- Anderson Valley Vineyards 1973 (now closed)
- La Vina Winery 1977
- La Chiripada 1977
- Santa Fe Vineyards 1982 bought by Black Mesa & Estrella Del Norte (now closed)
- Balagna Winery mid-1980s (now closed). John Balagna was a nuclear chemist involved in the Manhattan Project who was also a winemaker. His La Bomba Grande red blend celebrating the Trinity blast generated a lot of controversy. Glow in the dark wine, who knew?
- Gruet Winery: Vineyards originally in Engle, NM. Founders from Champagne (Gruet et Fils)
- H. Lescombes Winery & Bistro. Formerly Southwest Wines: Vineyards in Lordsburg, NM
- Clair Winery located in Deming: D. H. Lescombes, St. Clair, Blue Teal
- Many boutique wineries were established in 1990s
- Casa Rondeña Winery established in late 1995, first plantings in 1990.
- Milagro Vineyards from which our sampled wine comes was founded in 1999, which coincided with my arrival in the state.
New Mexico grapes
NM grapes are quite varied and include hybrid as well as Vitis vinifera varieties. Italian and Spanish grape do very well and a wide range of French grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc is less successful as is Pinot Noir. The first Pinot Noir I considered authentic was at Milagro.
Cabernet Franc
This grape varietal is heavily planted in France in Bordeaux and Loire Valley regions. The origin is thought to be in Sud-quest or southwest France in the Basque region. It has been in the Libournais (Right Bank, Bordeaux) region since the 17th century at which time plantings were taken to Loire by Cardinal Richelieu no less. From these two origin locations it has spread to Hungary and Italy and ultimately the world.
- Many Right Bank wines contain up to 50%, such as Chateau Cheval Blanc
- In the Loire Valley, Cabernet Franc is widely planted in the Anjou, Bourgueil, Chinon, and Saumur-Champigny regions
- In California the grape was sometimes mistaken as Merlot because of close genetic ties
- Interest heightened in the 1980s as a component of Bordeaux blends and later as a single varietal
- Notable versions come from Corrales Winery, Milagro Vineyards and Casa Rondeña
It’s hard to be a father
The flow chart below shows the parentage of Cabernet Franc; courtesy Wine Folly. Those triangles are grape clusters in case you wondered.
Bottom line; without Cabernet Franc we would have no Bordeaux blends of the hugely popular Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. Thanks, Dad.
Milagro Vineyards Corrales, NM
My personal favorite NM winery and that comes with 20 years of tasting their wines as well as buying many cases of wine. Some of the things that make Milagro special:
- Only French oak used for aging and bottles held one year before release
- Sur lie technique used on Chardonnay, no malolactic fermentation, crisp acidity
- Old Church Road estate vineyard, plus manages several Corrales & Rio Rancho plots
- Holds library wines to see how wines age
- First NM winery to earn the prestigious Jefferson Memorial award; now has several
- Coolest label with Wilbur the Pig & tee shirts
- Winemaker Rick Hobson; a passionate dedicated vigneron (French term for someone who grows the grapes and makes the wine.)
Current Wine List 2021
- Corrales White: Riesling, Chardonnay, Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc.
- 2016 Chardonnay
- 2015 Old Church Road Chardonnay (sold out)
- 2018 Riesling & Gruner Veltliner
- 2019 Semillon
- Rose – whole cluster pressed Leon Millot
- Corrales Red: Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Cab S.
- 2016 Syrah
- 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc & Zinfandel
- 2017 Pinot Noir (sold out)
- 2014 Merlot
- Library wines: 2015 Old Church Zinfandel, 2014 Syrah, 2012 Zinfandel, 2014 Red Cuvée Field blend (50% Cab S, 25% Merlot, 25% Cab F.)
What we are tasting: Milagro Vineyards 2016 Cabernet Franc, ABV 13.5%, $33 at winery
Grown in their Coronado Vineyard on the warm Corrales hillside from clones 4 & 11, the wine was barrel aged 2 years in French oak followed by one year bottle age. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and wet gravel, flavors of cherry and red plum, fine tannin, balanced acidity and a long finish. The current vintage is 2017 with 25 cases.
Yet another sumptuous red wine from Milagro, which paired very well with Trader Joe’s Unexpected Cheddar with subtle parmesan notes. Actually my drinking companions often do expect it; a fine cheese to pair with many red wines. As with all of Milagro’s wines this one is very food-friendly with lower alcohol and crisp acidity.
While the 2016 has sold out, winemaker Rick Hobson might hold some as a library selection. The 2017 is now out and will age well for many years if you have the patience.
Buying Local – never more important
Even with the impact of Covid-19 our New Mexico winemakers are working hard to maintain and keep their unique wines flowing. Many of our winemakers believe in our terroir and its ability to make great wines. While our wines do not have the cachet of Bordeaux they do have the quality of one. Many local wine lovers prefer sweeter wines so many of our wineries do offer them to support their bottom line. Milagro is unique in only offering drier styles, but they do sell out every year so don’t lose out.
However nearly all winemakers do make dry or drier wines. Those with a focus on interstate commerce of wine focus on more popular styles, such as Gruet and DH Lescombes. Boutique wineries focus on local consumption. Vara, Casa Rondeña and Black Mesa are probably the largest smaller wineries.
How to order wine for pickup:
- Go to nmwines.com; the NM wine growers website.
- Find your local wineries, which are grouped by region
- Go to the wineries that most interest you. The overview and winery details can help
- Select the wines that interest you and follow their requirements for pickup
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