This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on March 27, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
Israel has been making wine since biblical times. That’s obvious because the bible mentions it more than once in both testaments. Water is still converted into wine there, but now it is drip-irrigation to feed the grapes in some of the desert locations. Many of the wines are kosher, although kosher wines are made in many places around the world. Israeli wine is produced by hundreds of wineries, from small boutiques to large companies. Passover 2021: March 27 to April 4.
- Modern Israeli wine industry began in 1880s
- Was generously-supported by Baron Rothschild,
- Provided vine cuttings from his Château Lafite-Rothschild in Bordeaux
- In 2011, Israeli wine exports totaled over $26.7 million.
- 2012 produced over 3 million cases
- Israel about the size of New Jersey; primarily Mediterranean climate
Israeli Wine Regions
These are the modern wine-related regions. The official wine regions of Israel are Galilee, Shomron, Samson, Judean Hills and the Negev.
Galilee
The Galilee (Galil in Hebrew) is situated in the north of Israel. The Upper Galilee is a mountainous area of forests, jagged peaks and rock-bound ridges. It is arguably Israel’s most beautiful vineyard region. The soils are heavy, but well drained. They tend to be a mixture of volcanic, gravel and terra rossa soils. The region most suited for viticulture due to its high elevation, cool breezes, marked day and night temperature changes and rich, well-drained soils.
Terra rossa is well-drained, reddish clay to silty clay soil with neutral pH, typical of the Mediterranean region. The reddish color is the result of the preferential formation of hematite over goethite.
Golan Heights
The Golan Heights is situated in the north east of Israel. It is a volcanic plateau rising to 1,200 meters above sea level. The area benefits from cool breezes from snow-covered Mount Hermon. The Golan is divided into:
- Southern Golan overlooking the Sea of Galilee at 350 meters with basaltic clay soils.
- Middle Golan is at 400 to 500 meters.
- Upper Golan rises from 750 to 1,200 meters. Soil is volcanic tuff and black basalt stone is everywhere.
Central Mountains
Mount Carmel, the Menashe Hills, the Shomron Hills and the Judean Hills make up the Central Mountain Region, which begins in Haifa and then down the spine of the country. The main vineyard concentration is in the valleys north east of Zichron Ya’acov benefiting from the southern Carmel Mountain range and cooling breezes off the Mediterranean Sea. The Judean Hills surround the city of Jerusalem. The Shomron Hills are located between the Judean Hills and the Coastal Plain.
Coastal Plain
The area is from 0 to 100 meters above sea level; a hot, humid region. Summer temperatures range from 20 to 32 degree C. Annual precipitation is 350-400mm. Here alluvial soils mix with sandy, clay loams and there is also a fair bit of terra rossa. This was one of the areas planted by Baron Edmond de Rothschild in the 1880’s.
Baron Philippine de Rothschild once said “winemaking is easy, it is the first 200 years that is the hardest.”
Judean Foothills
This is a region of small vineyards and many wineries, which is bisected by the road from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. The rolling hills possess deep soils of chalky and clay loams. Elevations are higher than the coastal plain, from 150 to 350 meters above sea level.
Negev (neh-GEV)
The Negev is the desert region that makes up half the country. Vineyards are planted in the Negev Highlands. Soils are sandy loam and loess. The Negev Highlands are up to 900 meters elevation. Rainfall is barely 50 to 100 mm. a year. Temperatures range from very hot during the day (up to 40 degree C, 104 F) to cooler evenings and very cold nights. The vineyards are sometimes shrouded in mists during the morning hours. Drip irrigation is required
A unique problem to the vineyards are marauding camels, that can eat a vine to its roots. However, this is only marauding camels; the ones that pose for Camel cigarettes are probably OK.
Israeli Wine Timeline
One of the seven blessed species of fruit found in the land of Israel (Deut. 8:8) 5,000 years of wine making.
In Roman times, wine from Israel was exported to Rome. Most prized wines vintage dated with name of winemaker inscribed on amphora.
A typical conversation in Rome: Hey Cassius, look, Jude the Younger’s Galilee Gallop, vintage is 20 AD. AD, what the heck does that mean? I’m guessing they used Roman dates and numbers.
In 7th century, the Islamic conquest of Middle East wiped out wine industry.
Temporarily revived in the Crusader states from around 1100 to 1300
In 1882, Baron Rothschild helped establish Carmel Winery
Vineyards and winery near Haifa
Carmel is the largest producer of Israeli wine, forefront of wine technical innovation
Made first dry wine in 1960
The first boutique winery was founded in 1989
In 2005 there were 140 wineries in Israel; nearly 300 now
Only 15-20% of wines are kosher
Made in Israel?
The Golan Heights, located northeast of Israel proper, has been occupied by Israel since the Six-Day War in 1967. Israel considers it a sub-region of the Galilee. The political status of the Golan Heights has resulted in controversy on the export market.
One example: Golan Heights wines in Sweden were labeled Made in Israel. After customer complaints Sweden’s foreign ministry, presumably with a replacement sticker covered it with Made in Israeli-occupied Syrian territories. After further complaints, Sweden removed all reference to the country of origin.
Well let’s see, when a bottle of Golan Heights Winery shows up without a made in . . . ? Nobody would guess it came from Israel? Just asking here.
Grapes of Israel
French grapevine cuttings imported in 19th century. The most widely planted varieties include:
- Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot best red wine grapes
- Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, most popular white wine grapes
- Increasing in popularity: Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Muscat Canelli, Riesling and Syrah.
Kosher wines
To be considered kosher, a wine may only be handled by observant Jews from the time the grapes are crushed. If, however, the wine is boiled or pasteurized, it may subsequently be handled by anyone without losing its kosher status. Let me repeat that; boiled or pasteurized. The following information is presented to explain the process when no observant Jews are available. The following information was annotated from a very good article by Rabbi Tzvi Rosen and other sources.
- Kosher wine can’t contain non-kosher ingredients or fining agents: isinglass, gelatin or casein. Only the natural enzymes on the grapes must be used for fermentation; that is no commercial yeasts can be employed.
- Only 20% of Israeli wine is kosher, most large producers in Israel have kosher certification.
- An observant Jew must initiate, activate, or operate every essential step of the crush, including the fermentation, standardization, and sample taking for quality control. For this reason, the winery must be manned by a sizable crew of qualified Mashgichim throughout the duration of the crush and a smaller crew during standardization operations.
- In the United States, most kosher wines are heated to 180 degrees as required. Once cooked, the wine can no longer become Stam Yaynom and can no longer ferment naturally. Therefore the wine needs to have outside wine enzymes added to the juice so that artificial fermentation can occur.
- For California red wines, the bishul, pasteurization takes place after fermentation and clarification. There is a combination of natural fermentation and additional wine-yeast additives that are used to ferment the red wine. California white wines are pressed, chilled, pasteurized and then fermented.
- New York wineries add sugar to their wines to achieve their sweetness. In some New York wineries, where all the workers are Jewish, wines are naturally fermented. After fermentation the wine is aged in storage casks to mature and develop flavor and fragrance.
- Kosher for Passover generally has a “P” on the back label to indicate this.
- The bottom line: if you love wine, choose wine made by observant Jews. Either certain NY State or Israeli producers.
What we are tasting: Recanati Yasmin Red, 14% ABV $15
Recanati Winery was founded by Lenny Recanati in 2000. It was a golden year for new wineries. Amphorae Vineyards, Clos de Gat, Ella Valley Winery, Galil Mountain and Yatir Winery also saw the light of day in the same year. This was the first Israeli winery to produce wines from indigenous Holy Land varieties like Marawi and Bittuni. These local varieties were grown on a Hebron pergola by a Palestinian grower and made into wine by an Israeli winemaker. Nice teamwork!
Following Kosher certification rules, the Recanati Yasmin Red grapes ferment at a controlled temperature for 6 to 10 days. A short maceration produces soft tannins. Then it ages in oak barrels for a short time to give light oak fragrances. Extremely versatile, this supple and appealing medium-bodied red exudes generous aromas of succulent red berry fruit that will complement a wide array of dishes, such as meat and poultry. Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Merlot 20% blend.
Currant and savory spice notes are focused and supported by firm acidity in this medium-bodied red, with flavors of blackberry, herb and forest floor on the tannic finish. Galilee wine region.
What we are tasting: Barkan Vineyards Pinot Noir, Negev 2016, 12.5% ABV, $13.99 Total Wine
Barkan Vineyards & Winery was established at the end of the 19th century. With over 2,200 acres of vineyards — stretching across Israel: from Galilee in the north to Mitzpe Ramon in the Negev; in the Jerusalem Mountains and the Yehuda Plains — the winery is one of the largest and most advanced in Israel. The best quality cuttings worldwide were brought to Israel and planted in Barkan’s vineyards. In 2000, a new sophisticated winery was built at Hulda kibbutz in the Judean plain, boasting the most advanced production technologies in the world — including laboratories, farms and logistics center.
The Barkan Pinot Noir comes from the Negev Vineyard which, due to its extreme conditions, provides for very low harvest yields. The wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir grown at an altitude between 550-800 meters. The altitude and low yields give the wine finesse and aromatic intensity combined with great depth of flavor.
Wine Enthusiasts: This wine has aromas of plum, cassis and juniper. Mid-weight tannins provide a framework for flavors of cherry, black currant, pomegranate, leather and soft spice. It offers nice depth of flavor right into a zippy cranberry finish. 88 points
Wines to Check Out
- Yarden Winery in Golan Heights, high altitude growing area
- Carmel Winery, oldest and largest winery, 2011 Cab rec’d high ratings
- Carmel, Barkan, Golan Heights top 3 wineries
- 35 commercial wineries, 250 boutique wineries
- Mogen David Mad Dog 20/20 was 20 ounces of 20% ABV but is no longer available, which is probably a good thing.
- Check out http://www.kosherwine.com
- Check out https://winesisrael.com/en/
- Many countries have kosher wines: France, Spain, Italy, Argentina, NY State and California.
Analysis
The Yasmin Red was very nicely done. Good rich fruit, with good balance and crispness. One of the better Israeli wines I’ve had. The Pinot Noir was not typical of this grape. It was more extracted, darker in color and had a favor profile of darker fruits. Nonetheless it was well made and balanced and will still have wide appeal. Both wines are kosher for Passover.
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