This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on April 3, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
We recently did a show on South Australia and Shiraz. Please refer to that blog for an overview of Australian wines. Here I am going directly to Western Australia.
Major wine regions
In Australia there are only six major wine regions, but many important subregions to explore. One could easily say that the south coast and the southeast extension of the country is where it’s at.
- Western Australia: The wine growing area around Perth and the Margaret River excel at unoaked Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends.
- South Australia around Adelaide is known for their excellent Shiraz and mineral-driven Riesling.
- Victoria around Melbourne is the southernmost part of Australia and makes fruity Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in its cooler regions. Loved the Yarra Valley when I was there.
- New South Wales above Victoria produces lean, mineral Shiraz and Semillon from Hunter’s Valley
- Queensland above Brisbane is a tiny region known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
- The island of Tasmania produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Australia’s coolest climate and home to an ill-tempered Devil. Feed it some wine, it’ll calm down.
Western Australia Wine Region
Our featured wines are from this region so we’ll put our focus on its subregions. This area is the southernmost western part of the continent. Perth is the major city with most subregions below it. They all face the Indian Ocean. There are nine subregions of note.
History:
The Swan Valley was established in 1829 by Thomas Waters. It’s the historical center for wine production in Western Australia. However, the state’s cooler climate south-western area, such as Margaret River and Great Southern are more significant since Swan Valley is one of the hottest viticultural regions in the world.
With the emergence of the Margaret River and Great Southern regions spanning the far south western corner of the state a large number of producers have deserted Swan Valley. In the year 1970, 90 percent of the state’s wine was made from grapes grown in the Swan Valley; by 1980 the figure was 59 percent; by 1996 it was 15 percent and still falling. One could say it took a swan dive. Insert groan here.
Map courtesy of www.wineaustralia.com
Swan Valley: Just north of Perth and the hottest wine region in Australia. A number of winemakers have gone south to cooler subregions. The first established region in 1829.
Perth Hills: Located just east of Perth on an elevated escarpment.
Geographe: One long sweeping bay that hides many treasures. Cooled by the afternoon sea breeze, this region enjoys a long and stable growing season that’s ideal for crafting award-winning Shiraz, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.
Margaret River: Jutting out as the westernmost part of this region and clearly influenced by its coastal climate. The grape varieties cultivated include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sémillion, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Known for its mineral-driven Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends. The region produces just three percent of total Australian grape production, but commands over 20 percent of the Australian premium wine market. Also a primo surfing capital with 75 breaks along its 130 km coastline
Pemberton: Just below and east of the Margaret River and also influenced by the Indian Ocean. Established in 1913 but it was in the 80s-90s that viticulture took off.
Peel: There are more than 200 hectares of vineyards dotted along the Darling escarpment south of Perth, featuring Shiraz and Chardonnay. The region begins as far north as Byford, just 45 minutes south of Perth by road, and stretches along the Darling escarpment and west to the coastal playgrounds of Mandurah and Rockingham.
Blackwood Valley: Boasting over 50 vineyards, covering an area of more than 450 hectares, the picturesque Blackwood Valley Wine Region is located between the Margaret River and the Great Southern Wine Regions in the southwest of Western Australia.
Manjimup: The continental climate is influenced by the ocean and provides even temperatures during the grape-ripening period, resulting in ripe grapes and full-flavored wines.
- Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: The climate is ideal for growing these varieties and they dominate plantings, producing elegant single-varietal and blended wines.
- Chardonnay: These are elegant cool-climate Chardonnay wines with melon and citrus flavors.
- Verdelho: Manjimup produces excellent Verdelho, zingy and fresh with tropical fruit flavors from this Italian white grape varietal.
Map courtesy Decanter magazine
Great Southern: Australia’s largest wine region, a rectangle 200 kilometers from east to west and over 100 kilometers from north to south. It has five designated subregions. It’s known for Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot noir, Shiraz, and Malbec. Crisp expressive Riesling that can age for two decades are a mainstay.
The subregions include Frankland River. Mount Baker, Porongurup, Denmark and Albany.
Our first sampled wine, a Syrah, sources its fruit from Frankland River and Mount Baker, two of the more inland subregions of Great Southern.
What we are tasting: Snakes & Herring 2018 Redemption Syrah 14% ABV, $24.99
Boy, if that name doesn’t recall classic Aussie labels I don’t what would. And we all hope the name refers to the founders and not the ingredients. Following are the winemaker notes on the wine and vineyards and a short bio of the producers. The label looks like something out of Monty Python and gets your attention.
Tony “Snake” Davis has over 25 years’ wine making experience across the renowned wine regions of Oregon, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Tasmania, South Australia and of course, Western Australia. Redmond “Herring” Sweeny is an accountant by trade and a sports-mad wine addict by passion. In 2011 these two chaps met, collaborated and Snake and Herring was created.
Syrah is the red icon of the uber-cool Great Southern with different interpretations within the five sub-regions of Mount Barker, Porongurup, Frankland, Albany and Denmark.
Vineyards: The Shiraz from Mount Barker is located west of the township with gravelly low vigor soils on a ridge top with east-west rows. This vineyard has been the cornerstone of Redemption Syrah since 2012. The Frankland component is from the ridgetop of an old vineyard west of the township with a great northern aspect and well drained gravels.
Process: Fermented in open tops with wild yeast, there were several different small 1T ferments; the Frankland syrah was fermented as 100% whole bunches in the classic Maceration Carbonique. The Mount Barker fruit used 20% whole bunches in their ferments. The pressed wine was aged in a mix of new, 1 year old and older puncheons (500L) for 10 months (28% new).
Note: The technique the winemakers used is also known as carbonic maceration; a classic method used in Beaujolais which also incorporates whole cluster fermentation with the stems included. The grapes at the bottom split from the weight of the grapes above and begin fermentation which releases CO2 that triggers intracellular fermentation in the grapes above. This results in a fruitier wine with less tannin, or in this case as part of a blend, adds to the complexity of the wine.
2018 Redemption Syrah: enters a new stage for this wine with the incorporation of a Frankland Syrah parcel adding its blue-fruited density to the red fruits and spice of the Mount Barker component. The stalks and whole bunch ferments enhance the red fruits and complexity, adding soft yet stringy tannins and a sappy texture. The oak is integrated and shows in the finely textured tannins. The 2018 Redemption is a best vintage of this wine we have produced, truly greater than the sum of its parts.
What we are tasting: 19 Crimes the Punishment Pinot Noir 13.5% ABV, $13.99
The color of this Pinot Noir is a medium intense burgundy with a youthful purple rim. Lifted notes of cherry and strawberry fruit complement rich vanillin overtones giving warm and inviting aromas on the nose of this wine from Southeastern Australia.
Analysis
I took note of the fact the Redemption was labeled Syrah, not Shiraz, suggesting this was more of an Old World style and indeed it was. The style is more restrained than typical Shiraz with good minerality and wonderful complexity. It tastes more like a northern Rhone Syrah from Hermitage and at a very reasonable price point. I loved this wine.
The 19 Crimes did not have the typicity of classic Pinot Noir and could have been mistaken for other red wines. It did not have the lift or flavor profile I expect from a Pinot, but it was a decent wine that will appeal to many wine drinkers. The 19 Crimes wines are very popular and they do have a good story.
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