This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on May 22, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
On our past trips to Spain it has been the red wines and Sherries of Spain we have focused on, only briefly mentioning the whites other than Albarińo. However there are many good, value-driven white wines in Spain. Some are used to make the sparkling wines of Catalonia but others make good still wines at reasonable prices.
Spanish wine overview
There are over sixty defined wine regions and seven distinct climates within Spain, which is the third largest wine producer and the country with the most acreage devoted to grape vineyards. Below is a brief summary of the major wine regions.
Northwest Spain
Dominated by the Atlantic on its western and northern boundaries, many great whites come from Galicia and Pais Vasco with red and white wines from Castilla y Leon further inland. This is the coolest region in Spain. Albarińo from the Rias Baixas (Rhee-yus By-shus) are lean and mineral-driven near the sea and richer with grapefruit and peach further inland.
White grapes: Albarińo, Godella, Verdejo, primarily in Rueda, and Txakoli (Cha-koli) made with Hondarrabi Zuri (right I’m sure you’ve all heard of this one)
Northeast Spain
Directly below France and extending to the Mediterranean coast, this area includes La Rioja, Navarra, Aragon and the vast coastal area of Catalunya. Rioja Blanco is a rich age-worthy white using the Viura grape, while Cava sparklers use Macabeo, the local name for Viura, along with Xarello and Paralleda.
Southern Spain
The vast area of southern Spain includes Extramadura in the west and Castilla-La Mancha in the central region below Madrid and the Costa del Sol region of Andalucía from Malaga to Cadiz and home to Sherry. Airen is the principal white grape of Castilla-La Mancha and used primarily to make brandy or blended with other whites.
White grapes: Airen is the most planted grape, while Andalucía uses Palomino Fino and Pedro Ximénez and Muscat of Alexandria for Moscatel de Setúbal dessert wines sporting Mandarin orange and honey.
Spanish wine classifications: DOP
- Vino de Pago: Single vineyard wines, 15 total
- DOCa/DOQ: Winery located in same region as grapes, a rigorous standard: Rioja and Priorat
- DO: Quality wines in 79 official wine regions
- IGP: lower standard from larger regional areas
Rias Baixas and Albarińo
Over 99% of all wine produced in Rías Baixas is white. Differences in microclimates, terroir and grape varieties in the five sub-zones, as well as different winemaking techniques, make for wonderful diversity. Styles range from a crisp, aromatic “melony” character in Val do Salnés, to a peachier, softer style in O Rosal, and a less fruity and earthier style in Condado do Tea.
See www.riasbaixaswine.com
While the different sub-zones express subtle differences, the wines all share a number of characteristics. Pale golden lemon, they are all crisp, elegant and fresh. These wines are bone-dry and aromatic, packed with flavors of white peach, apricot, melon, pineapple, mango and honeysuckle. They share good natural acidity, have mineral overtones, and are medium bodied with moderate alcohol (12%).
DO Rías Baixas permit eight types of wine:
- Rías Baixas
- Rías Baixas Albariño –100% Albariño, grapes can be sourced from any sub-zone
- Rías Baixas Salnés – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Condado – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Rosal – designated subregion
- Rías Baixas Barrica – wines aged in oak, can be red or white
- Rías Baixas Tinto – red wine, less than 1% of all production
- Rías Baixas Espumoso – sparkling wine, limited production
Grape varieties
While fourteen grape varieties are permitted in the DO, the white Albariño grape represents 96% of all plantings. Other important permitted grapes include Treixadura, traditionally blended with Albariño; and Loureiro, a high-quality local variety particularly associated with O Rosal. Caiño Blanco, Torrontés and Godello are also planted to a lesser extent throughout the region. Torrontés is the primary white grape of Argentina.
Viticulture
Planting Albariño at the proper height and exposure to ensure even, healthy ripening is essential to quality. Vines are traditionally widely spaced and trained on granite pergolas. To counter the region’s rainfall and humidity, most vines are trained on a wire trellis called a “parra” anchored by granite posts. Parras are up to seven feet high, allowing breezes to flow through for maximum circulation to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening.
Some vineyards are replacing this with a European double cordon system called espaldera. Throughout the region, yields are low, ranging from three to five tons per acre. The grapes are hand-picked in small plastic 40 pound crates and then delivered to the winery to avoid oxidation. The must is fermented in temperature controlled, stainless steel fermenters.
Subregions of Rías Baixas
Rías Baixas Albarińo producers can sources their grapes from one or more of the five subregions depending on the character of wine they want to make. As noted above three of these subregions carry their own label designations; Val Do Salnés, Condado Do Tea and O Rosal.
map courtesy of www.riasbaixaswines.com
Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. Located on the Atlantic coast, it surrounds the historic town of Cambados. This is the original and oldest sub-region with the most area under vine and the highest concentration of wineries. The soil is granite and rocky with alluvial top-soil. It is also the coolest and wettest sub-region with an average temperature of just 55º F.
Condado Do Tea, “The County of Tea” is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River. Located in a fairly mountainous area along the Miño, this is the second largest sub-region. The most inland, it is a warmer, drier area, with an average temperature of 59º F that can soar to 104º F during the summer. Soils contain granite and slate.
O Rosal also lies along the Miño River where it joins the Atlantic Ocean. This sub-region forms the border with Portugal. With granite bedrock and alluvial topsoil, the vineyards are terraced along the sides of the Miño. The fishing village of A Guarda offers a picturesque setting to enjoy the foods and wines of the region.
Ribeira do Ulla is the newest Rías Baixas sub-region; this area was registered in 2000 and is composed mostly of alluvial soil. It is located inland, just southeast of Santiago de Compostela, and east of Padrón, a town famous for fried green peppers, a popular tapa.
Soutomaior is nestled in the hills at the head of the Rías de Vigo, it is the smallest of the sub-regions and was registered in 1996. Soils are light and sandy over granite bedrock.
What we are tasting: Val Do Sosego 2019 Albarińo, 12.5% ABV, $16.99 at Total Wines
Racy orange peel and melon aromas set the stage for a well-formed palate with good acidity, freshness and balance. Lightly briny white fruit flavors are textbook for Albariño, while a note of green herbs rises up on a popping finish.
James Suckling-Rias Baixas, Spain – “A pretty white with sliced apples and pears, as well as some flint and steel undertones. It’s medium to full-bodied with lovely fruit and a flavorful finish.” 92 points
Analysis
We only had this wine to try for this outing and both Eddy Aragon and I thoroughly enjoyed it. It is one of the best expressions of this grape I’ve ever had and I’ve been a fan of this wine for a long time. When Eddy went back to Total Wines to buy more they were sold out. I warned him not to wait until after the show airs to grab any. Oh well!
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