This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on August 14, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
In past shows we’ve covered all of northern Italy; several times. When we dipped south it was Sicily we focused on and Puglia for our Primitivo. What we’ve missed are many unique red and white wines of the south that are gaining favor and offer good value and new tasting experiences. This week we are looking at some Italian white wines with which you might be unfamiliar. I know I was.
Southern Italy Wine Regions
The wine regions of southern Italy include Molise, Campania, Basilicata, Calabria, Puglia, Sicily and Sardinia (Sardegna). Previous we covered Sicily and its history and we explored Puglia in some detail, but have missed some of the oldest wine regions in the world. For the whites we are covering Campania, Calabria, Puglia and Sardinia.
Map courtesy of Fernando Beteta Master Somm
The Molise wine region was hit hard with phylloxera and later WWII, and has only come back since the 1950s with much production moved to the coast. Campania is where pizza, spaghetti and mozzarella originated. Tuarasi is known for its big Aglianico-based wine. That same grape is the star in Basilicata atop a dormant volcano, Vulture. Calabria makes a range of red and white wines. Sardinia, Italy’s second largest island is known for its Vermentino wines.
Southern Italy white wine grapes
Campania:
Campania’s Mediterranean climate, volcanic soils and long growing season in the more mountainous regions with wide diurnal swings is ideal for the three grapes below. These are all ancient varieties planted by the Greeks and prized by the Romans. Mastroberadino Winery established in the 1750s is credited with bringing many ancient varieties back to life and Mustilli winery is credited with the rebirth of Falanghina.
- Falanghina: signature white that is zesty with peach & almond notes. The Sannio DOC zone has a strong wine tradition that stretches back for millennia.
- Greco: From the name this obviously was of Greek origin. Greco di Tufo gained DOCG status in 2003. Tufo (tuffe) is a porous limestone soil that adds minerality to the wine.
- Fiano: A unique age-worthy white with almost a waxy texture, honeydew, Asian pear, hazelnut. It is a small, thick-skinned grape variety that can produce full-bodied wines with intense aromas and exhilarating citrus, tropical fruit and/or floral flavors. Fiano di Avellino is a DOCG subregion.
Calabria
Calabria is surrounded by mountains and sea. To the north, the Apennine mountains form a border between Calabria and its sister region, Basilicata. To the south, the Tyrrhenian Sea surrounds the region on the western side, while the Ionian Sea enfolds the eastern side. This results in a breezy, warm Mediterranean climate that is perfect for grape growing and has been that way for millennia. Calabria produces 90% red wine, many from the Gaglioppo grape.
- Greco di Bianco: This is one of the few main white wine regions. Made with partially dried grapes, Greco di Bianco has a deep amber color with herbal, citrus-like notes.
Puglia
Known more for their red wines these are many white wine grapes to investigate.
- Verdeca: is a white grape grown almost exclusively in Puglia and historically was most commonly used in vermouth production. Now it is typically found in blends. The color is straw yellow with a touch of green. It has a clean minerality that’s almost flinty, with herbal and citrus notes.
- Bombino Bianco: is an easy growing, resistant grape varietal with high yields. Typically blended with red grapes or used in sparkling wines. Bombino Bianco can be found in still wines and unlike many wine varieties, is used to make raisins. Color is lemon yellow with hints of pale green.
- Greco Bianco has long history of over 2500 years. It is genetically similar to the variety Asprinio. The late maturing Greco Bianco is almost always used in a blend with other Apulian varieties. These wines are fresh and grapey with racing acidity with peachy, grassy aromas and a deep color. Though best young, they will develop more nutty aromas after a few years in the bottle.
Sardinia
The second largest Italian island, but at 94% the size of Sicily still very big it’s to the west of Roma.
- Sardinia’s only DOCG, is Vermentino di Gallura. Dry, full-bodied white wines made from Vermentino that taste of the sea, with white flowers, lemon and stone fruit.
- Torbato, a grape originally from Spain has only about 200 acres left in the world. Torbato produces refreshing, pale-straw wine marked by white flowers and hints of sea minerals. The sparkling version is a must as an aperitif but there are also still versions.
- Malvasia di Bosa: a grape variety spread around the Mediterranean has many clones and vinification methods. Here it’s typically a sweet version of Malvasia, rich with honeysuckle and chamomile aromas and an intense almond taste with good balancing acidity. Another version is vinified like a Sherry, creating a flor and produces a complex dessert wine.
Campania
To many tourists this region is Naples, a lovely port city seen in scores of movies, or the Amalfi Coast a 50 km- stretch of coastline and rugged mountains. However, in the past 35 years a group of passionate and dedicated winemakers have been resurrecting the ancient white varieties of Fiano, Falanghina and Greco into world-class wines. These grapes are unique to this region, planted by the Greeks, nurtured by the Romans, but almost forgotten in modern times.
Here is Vinous magazine’s take on it from Ian D’Agata, November 2016.
For those who don’t yet grasp the importance of native grapes, let me repeat for the umpteenth time that Fiano was virtually extinct as recently as the 1950s. Is that relevant, you ask. Well, suffice it to say that most experts agree that Fiano is probably Italy’s single greatest native white grape variety, so losing it would hardly have been a smart move. Not by chance, the cultivar is now being studied and grown in places as far removed from Campania as California and Australia. And yet, as recently as the late 1960s, Antonio Mastroberardino, the man who saved Fiano, was still going on record as being unsure about Fiano’s future survival.
What we are tasting: Donnachiara Fiano di Avellino, 2018, 13% ABV, $19.99 at Total Wine
Donnachiara produces Irpinia’s three DOCG wines, i.e. Fiano di Avellino, Taurasi and Greco di Tufo, as well as the traditional Aglianico and Falanghina wines. Such production follows a tradition that has been pursued by the Petitto family for years. Donnachiara is located in the province of Avellino, a stone’s throw away from Montefalcione, a town that was already powerful under the Etruscans and has a scythe (symbol of farm work) in the municipal coat of arms.
- Classification: Fiano di Avellino DOCG Fiano 100%
- Type of soil: Chalky clay
- Training system: Guyot
- Harvest: Second half of October
- Color: Straw yellow with a light green touch
- Bouquet: Delicate bouquet which elegantly combines hints of almonds, walnuts and floral notes (acacia and may) with notes of tropical fruit
- Palate: Dry, warm, smooth, good body, a real pleasure to taste
- Serving temperature: 54/57 °F
- Food affinities: Fine with seafood especially shellfish, pasta with light sauces and white meat
James Suckling: “Lots of stone, white pepper and bitter lemon aromas and flavors. Medium body, oily palate and a flavorful finish.”
What we are tasting: Feudi di San Gregorio 2019, 13% ABV, $16-20
This is a white wine that is 100% Falanghina from the Sannio appellation; under the Terlato Wines family of wines. This is a top highly-rated winery.
Feudi di San Gregorio was established in 1986 in Sorbo Serpico, a tiny village in Campania’s Irpinia region, near Mount Vesuvius. This highly acclaimed winery encourages us to rediscover the identity of Mediterranean flavors through indigenous grapes that reach their full potential with their modern winemaking approach. Named after the method of vine cultivation in Sannio at the end of the Roman Era using Falangs (“poles”), this Falanghina is ideal as an aperitif. It can also accompany various types of appetizers, plates of simple fish and vegetables as well as fresh cheeses.
Wine Notes
- Color: straw yellow that contains brilliant green reflections.
- Aroma: Floral notes, like white blossoms, and delicate apple and pear.
- Taste: Medium intensity, crisp minerality, with hints of spice, light almond and a slightly bitter orange peel character. The pretty floral notes and soft fruit flavors are fresh through the finish in perfect balance with the mouthwatering acidity.
Length/Type of Fermentation:
Grape bunches are hand-harvested into 18 kilo crates during the latter half of September. The crates are then transported in refrigerated trucks (50º F) to the winery. Bunches are individually selected and soft-pressed followed by cold settling at 57˚F for 24-48 hours. The juice is cold-fermented in stainless steel vats between 61 – 64˚F and does not undergo malolactic fermentation.
Length/Type of Aging: About 5 months in stainless steel on the lees with an additional month in bottle prior to release.
Analysis
Both of these wines were a revelation for all three of us. I did not get waxy or oily elements, but refreshing minerality to go along with the fruit, crispness and aromatic nuances. I’d give a slight edge to the Fiano di Avellino, but both had unique flavor profiles I found entrancing. I will also note that I later tried the Donnachiara Greco di Tufo, their other DOCG-based wine and was even more impressed, as were my guests for dinner. Total Wine carries all of them.
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