This blog is based on the Spirits of New Mexico radio show that aired on November 27, 2021. We do on-air tasting of one or two wines to illustrate what is available in a particular wine region, or as a contrast of what influence a wine region has on a grape or blend. We also contrast wine styles as in the current blog. We use suitable glasses for the type of wine and do a double-decant of red wines to insure they have opened sufficiently for accurate judging.
This was part 2 of our November 27 show, but on a different topic. In past shows we have mentioned Aligoté, a white wine grape from the Cote Chalonnaise region of Burgundy, which is typically used in Crémant de Bourgogne sparkling wines along with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Recently I discovered a 100% Aligote at Total Wines and decided it was time to try it out and learn more about the grape.
From Wikipedia: Aligoté is a white grape used to make dry white wines, especially in the Burgundy region of France where it was first recorded in the 18th century. Since it is tolerant to cold, this variety is also cultivated in Eastern European countries. In 2004, it was the 22nd most planted vine variety in the world at 45,000 hectares (110,000 acres).
- The cocktail Kir aka, vin blanc cassis is made by adding cassis to an Aligoté wine.
- In blends, Aligoté adds acidity and structure to other varieties.
- The grape ripens early with moderate yields and produces wines high in acidity.
- The village of Bouzeron represents the region’s finest examples
- The appellation Bouzeron-Aligoté AOC restricts yields to 45 hl/ha
- The other AOC for this grape is Bourgogne Aligoté, which limits yields to 60 hl/ha.
In Burgundy the grape can be found along the fringe edges of the Côte-d’Or as well as in Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise which has the majority of plantings. In the past field blends of Chardonnay and Aligote were employed to spike the acidity of Chardonnay, but the vines have now been separated. DNA typing reveals the grape is a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais, the same cross as Chardonnay!
Wine Folly lists flavors of apple, unripe peach, white flower, smoke and fresh herbs. The wine is bone dry with light body and nearly off the charts acidity.
A recent Wine Enthusiasts article touting the rising popularity of the grape noted that the Rhone Rangers and other groups promote its use as well as Les Aligoteurs, a group of French producers and wine lovers who promote Burgundy’s all-but-forgotten white grape variety, Aligoté. It is even planted alongside prestigious premier cru vineyards. Until the 1970s, even Corton-Charlemagne had Aligoté vines planted among its Chardonnay.
History: According to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, Aligoté is an offspring of Pinot and Gouais blanc, making it a full sibling of Chardonnay, Melon de Bourgogne, Gamay and Auxerrois. Robinson speculates that the name Aligoté is derived from the old synonym for Gouais Blanc, Gôt. The grape first appeared in written records in 1780 under the synonym ‘Plant de Trois’ which refers to the tendency of Aligoté to produce three clusters per branch. The name Aligoté, itself, appears in the Côte d’Or in 1807.
Kir cocktail: The grape earned some notoriety after World War II when the mayor of Dijon, Félix Kir, created a cocktail that blended Aligoté with Crème de Cassis. Today that cocktail is known as the Kir and, while it has many derivatives, the classic incarnation still features Aligoté.
Burgundy locations: Today there is around 4800 acres with most plantings in the Côte Chalonnaise, particularly in the Bouzeron AOC. Producers tend to plant Aligoté either at the very bottom or very top of the slope, leaving the prime mid-slope section for the more profitable Chardonnay and Pinot noir.
Domestic locations: California winemaker Jed Steele makes an example in Washington State called Shooting Star sourced from 2 acres of Aligoté planted in the Yakima Valley by the Newhouse family in the 1970s. Josh Jensen of Calera has also experimented with the variety in the high-altitude Mt. Harlan AVA in the Gabilan Mountains of San Benito County, California.
What we are tasting: Cave de Genouilly Bourgogne Aligoté, 12.5% ABV, $19.99 at Total Wines
Cave de Genouilly was founded in 1932 as a co-operative of family growers in the Côte Chalonnaise. Today, the co-op includes 90 growers with 180 acres based around the communes of Genouilly, Fley, Bissy-sur-Fley, Saint-Martin-du-Tartre and Saint-Clément-sur-Guye. Many of the growers are second and third generation members of the co-op. Comments from Amber LeBeau, Jan 2018.
In addition to Bourgogne Aligoté, the co-op also produces Crémant de Bourgogne as well as still wines from the AOCs of Rully, Givry and Montagny–including some premier Cru.
Wine notes: Crisp and delightful, this 100% Aligoté displays lively aromas of lemon peel and apple blossom that are reminiscent of Chardonnay. Fresh flavors of citrus and tree fruit meld sublimely in a beautifully soft fashion, nuanced by spice notes. Wonderfully refreshing.
Analysis
Both Eddy Aragon and Dr. Summers, who has a show preceding mine, were very taken with the Aligoté and the Dune Rosé (see previous blog). I was very impressed with the floral and citrus nose of the Aligoté. The palate was medium weight, showing good fruit composition and good minerality with a lively crispness. The Dune Rosé is a pale, salmon color with crisp acidity, minerality and salinity, strawberry and red cherry, rounded out with cantaloupe melon notes. This is a very addictive wine that invites the next sip.
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