Last weekend I helped set up a wine tasting event of Spanish wines. The inaugural event for Albuquerque Wine Society was a great success. The wines covered many wine regions in Spain so having a map of Spain or better yet, a wine map, will come in handy while reading about this lineup of Spanish wines.
Spanish Wines event July 30
I recently helped set up a wine tasting event for the new Albuquerque Wine Society. I selected the wines and then discussed the terroir, the grapes and the wines so I’m reprising that information on our show. The wines came from various parts of Spain, illustrating the depth of fine wines and wine regions delivering high QPR wines.
Except for its border with France and Portugal, Spain is entirely surrounded by the sea. The fact it is a sea-faring nation comes as no surprise. The coastal region of the Mediterranean in Spain, or the Costa del Sol is a wonderful tourist area, but also renowned for their wines. The northwest Spanish coast is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, while the region of Aragon is influenced by the mountains and rivers.
The following five wine regions provide a tour of some of Spain’s best: Penedés, Rios Baixas, Murcia, Valencia and Aragon.
Penedés region
The Penedés region in Catalunya (Catalonia) province in northeast Spain is just below Barcelona and has been known for its great sparkling wines since the 1880s.
The word cava means cave and before refrigeration a cave was the only way to get a constant 55 degree temperature for wines.
Cava grapes: The three principal grapes are Xarel-lo, Paralleda and Macabeo, with Xarel-lo usually as the base grape. Of the three white wine grapes, Macabeo (aka Viura) is the one most commonly done as a single varietal. The other two are most often used to make Cava.
For your consideration: Insito Brut Cava Reserva: 12% ABV, $15.99
Cava sparklers use the traditional or Champagne method, meaning the second fermentation is done in bottle. This wine, being a Reserva is aged for 18 months so more richness and complexity is created. Flavors of apple, citrus and toast come with a rich mousse mouthfeel.
Beverage Dynamics-Spain- “Powerful and razor sharp, the heavy lime juice is complemented by candied lemon notes that are prominent. Slight spice and white pepper notes supplement the vibrant savory citrus acidity.” Rated 91 points.
I also demonstrated the proper way to open a sparkling wine so the only sound is of the queen passing gas. I did that with three of the 4 bottles and nary a drop of wine lost.
Rías Baixas region:
While many wine lovers know Spanish reds, the white wines other than Cava are less known. Macabeo, also called Viura is a very popular local grape, but the most intriguing white is Albariño. Albariño is a dry white wine with aromas of citrus and peach. On the palate, the wine can exhibit characteristics of grapefruit, lemon peel, apricot, and sweet melon. Because the grapes tend to grow in coastal regions, they can also have a touch of salinity. That is, the caress of the sea.
The Rías Baixas region above Portugal in northwestern Spain is influenced by the Atlantic. High above the coastal cliffs you will find vines set on a high trellis. Planting Albariño at the proper height and exposure to ensure even, healthy ripening is essential to quality. Vines are traditionally widely spaced and trained on granite pergolas. To counter the region’s rainfall and humidity, most vines are trained on a wire trellis called a “parra” anchored by granite posts. Parras are up to seven feet high, allowing breezes to flow through for maximum circulation to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening.
Rías Baixas Albarińo producers can source their grapes from one or more of the five subregions depending on the character of wine they want to make. Three of these subregions carry their own label designations; Val do Salnés, Condado Do Tea and O Rosal.
Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. Located on the Atlantic coast, it surrounds the historic town of Cambados. This is the original and oldest sub-region with the most area under vine and the highest concentration of wineries. The soil is granite and rocky with alluvial top-soil. It is also the coolest and wettest sub-region with an average temperature of just 55º F.
From the website: Martín Códax is made with grapes exclusively from selected plots in the “Val do Salnés” following a rigorous and careful process to guarantee its varietal purity and the traditional essence of the original wines of this valley. Each glass of our wine keeps the essence of the Atlantic. Of who we are, of our history and our traditions. Each bottle is a true reflection of our Atlantic.
Bodegas Martín Códax was founded in 1985 and was named after the most famous Galician troubadour whose medieval poems, the oldest of Galician-Portuguese language with the original music, are preserved. In the poems, the troubadour sings to love and to the sea of our coastline.
This was my first Albariño many years ago and it is still my favorite. When the attendees tasted this wine, many for the first time, they loved it. I know that response, I had it the first time I tried this wonderful Spanish white.
Martin Códax Albariño Rías Baixas: 12.5% ABV, $13.97
One of the oldest and best Albariño wines, situated on the Atlantic coastal cliffs, you’ll get strong notes of the sea, good minerality, citrus and stone fruit and good crispness.
Spanish Red wines:
The red wines of Spain are found throughout the country. La Rioja in north-central Spain is the most popular region, but La Mancha, Murcia, Valencia and Aragon provinces have also been cranking up the quality level to attract more international customers.
Bullas Wine Region (DO est. 1990)
Bullas region is one of three subregions within Murcia province. The other two are Jumilla and Yecia. Wine has been grown in this area since the seventh century BC, along with a Mediterranean climate of hot summers and cold winters. Average temperature is between 18 °C to 25 °C yearly, but the maximum can be as high as 40 °C and the minimum 0 °C. The vineyards are located at an altitude of between 500 and 810 meters above sea level, and the temperature on the higher vineyards is respectively lower.
The soils are mainly of brown limestone, but they are so hard they need to be broken up mechanically before vines can are planted, but still, they are quite fertile and provide good drainage. It usually rains heavily in September and October in Bullas.
Bullas Grapes
The Monastrell is the principal and native variety of Bullas within the Region of Murcia. More than 80% of vine cultivation is of this grape. With small grains and a very intense blue color, it provides a solid personality to Bullas wines due to its color and fruity flavor and terroir characteristics. Monastrell is used to produce red wine and fresh rosé.
Bullas used to be a bulk wine producer and produced mostly Joven young wine until it acquired appellation status in 1990. Then it became more focused on prime quality wine production, reflecting its identity and the excellence of its terroir.
Tesoro de Bullas Monastrell, 2019: Murcia, 14% ABV, $14.99
Monastrell, also known as Mourvèdre in France, is a deeply structured wine with rich fruit. This wine comes from Bodegas del Rosario in the Bullas region. They have many old vines in their vineyards, which add to the complexity and smoothness of the wines.
Only four years old this wine is already showing complex structure and fruit intensity.
Valencia: Utiel-Requena
Valencia province is costal with a few subregions further inland but still under a Mediterranean influence. The Utiel-Requena region was established in 1932 and its principal grape is Bobal, which comprises 80% of acreage. Bobal is a dark-skinned wine grape variety native to Utiel-Requena in southeast Spain. It is one of Spain’s most planted grape varieties behind Tempranillo and Airén. It’s purple-skinned, with good phenolic richness, tannic but soft on the palate.
J. Navascues La Pinada Bobal, 2017, 14.5% ABV, $14.99
Flavors of blackberry, pomegranate, licorice, black tea and cocoa powder are typical of the grape. The six years age helped soften the palate to velvet with dark fruit flavors, plum and earth and impressed the attendees. La Pinada has a medium-body, elegant and balanced; rated 93 points.
Aragon Wine Subregions
Aragon lies in the northeast of Spain, right along the center of the Ebro Valley which runs encased by the beginnings of two important mountain ranges: the Pyrenees in the north and the Iberic System in the south. Because of this, the climate in Aragon changes drastically from one part to another, meaning the temperature can be subzero in the areas closer to the Pyrenees while those closer to the Monegros desert could be suffering from unbearable heat.
The Ebro river – Spain’s second largest – cuts the region in half as it flows east towards the Mediterranean. Most winegrowing areas are situated at the foothills of these mountains and share the same limestone and clay-dominant soils. This is presumed to be the origin of Garnacha; the most planted grape. Many old vine Garnacha wines are highly-prized and helped spur the current popularity of this grape. Many insiders consider Aragon to be Spain’s most value-priced wines.
Vineyards in Aragon are classified as DOP or protected designation of origin of which there are four and IGPs of which there are six. The four DOP subregions comprise 60% of the total. The most typical grape is Cariñena, which gave its name to the DO Cariñena, but other varieties include Garnacha, Macabeo, Moscatel, and Tempranillo.
DO Cariñena
The Cariñena DO is known for being a pioneer in the wine sector. Wine was such a good business that in 1696, the Statute of the Vine was approved. This established in which areas the vineyards should be planted to obtain the best quality Aragon wines, and it was the predecessor of the present DO Cariñena, which was established in 1932.
Cariñena has always been quite traditional concerning the types of grapes used in their wines. However, they have lately started using other varieties to accommodate to the evolving tastes of the consumers. Only red wine rules are listed here, which must have a minimum of 12% ABV.
Red wine ageing requirements:
- Crianza: At least 24 months of ageing, of which a minimum of 6 should be spent in an oak barrel
- Reserva: At least 36 months of ageing, of which a minimum of 12 should be spent in an oak barrel, while the remaining time should be spent bottled
- Gran Reserva: At least 60 months of ageing, of which a minimum of 18 should be spent in an oak barrel, while the remaining time should be spent bottled.
Dux Imperial 2014 Garnacha Gran Reserva, Cariñena, 14% ABV, $16.99
Garnacha originates in Spain, but the Grenache grape is popular worldwide for GSM blends in France as well as California. It is often a key grape in Rose wines and makes a lighter, but rich single-varietal red wine. This wine is listed as a blend, but is primarily Garnacha. As a Gran Reserva it spends at least 5 years between oak and bottle time. This wine now has 9 years of ageing.
At this point the wines complexity and depth yield different flavors on the palate. This was everyone’s favorite red wine and that should come as no surprise. I wanted to present at least one aged wine to show how dramatic they can be and this wine really delivered. I made a point of buying two for myself later.
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